Alexina Anatole’s tahini panzanella. Photograph: Issy Croker/The Guardian. Food and prop styling: Kitty Coles. Food styling assistant: Grace Jenkins. View image in fullscreen Alexina Anatole’s tahini panzanella. Photograph: Issy Croker/The Guardian. Food and prop styling: Kitty Coles. Food styling assistant: Grace Jenkins. Food In praise of the bitter: Alexina Anatole’s recipes for tahini panzanella and curried corn farinata In Ayurvedic cooking, bitter ingredients are celebrated for their ability to refresh and rebalance. Here, the elegance of tahini and the cleanliness of grapefruit do the heavy lifting
Prefer the Guardian on Google B itterness has long had an image problem: is it delicious or disgusting? Here’s another contradiction: though bitterness seems as if it should sit alongside hot, pungent flavours such as mustard and horseradish, in reality it cools more than it builds. In Ayurvedic cooking, for instance, bitter ingredients are valued for their ability to refresh and rebalance, and those are qualities that run through both of today’s dishes, from the elegant bitterness of tahini in the panzanella to the clean bite of grapefruit in the dipping sauce for the farinata.
Prep 10 min Cook 25 min, plus resting Serves 2 -4
500g large tomatoes , eg, beef, oxheart or monterosa 1 tsp flaky sea salt ½ small garlic clove 1 tbsp sherry vinegar , or red-wine vinegar 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses 1 small red onion , peeled and very thinly sliced ½ tbsp capers , finely chopped, or nonpareilles, which are already petite enough ½ tbsp sesame seeds , lightly toasted Basil leaves , to garnish For the croutons 125g sourdough , crusts on, torn into rough pieces 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil ½ tsp flaky sea salt
For the tahini dressing 2 tbsp tahini 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil ¼ tsp fine sea salt
Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Chop the tomatoes into haphazard, chunky pieces and put them in a colander set over a bowl. Toss with the flaky salt and leave to drain for 10–15 minutes.
Meanwhile, spread the bread pieces on a baking tray, toss with the olive oil and salt, then bake for 10 minutes, until golden. In a bowl, grate the garlic into the tablespoon of sherry vinegar, to help take the edge off.
Make the tahini dressing by whisking the tahini, lemon juice, olive oil and salt, then gradually add about two tablespoons of ice-cold water until the mix is the consistency of double cream (the amount of water will depend on the thickness of the tahini).
Transfer the drained tomatoes to a serving bowl and stir in the pomegranate molasses, sliced red onion and capers. Add the sherry vinegar and garlic mix, and the croutons, and toss thoroughly. Stir through the tahini dressing, then leave for five to 10 minutes, so the croutons soften a little. Serve garnished with the toasted sesame seeds and basil leaves.
View image in fullscreen Alexina Anatole’s curried corn farinata with grapefruit dipping sauce. Prep 10 min Rest 15 min Cook 40 min Serves 3 -4 as a light lunch
For the farinata 100g chickpea flour ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp garlic powder/granules ½ tsp fine sea salt 1 tsp cumin seeds , toasted 1 tsp coriander seeds , toasted 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 75g tinned sweetcorn , drained, or frozen and defrosted 3 spring onions , finely sliced Mint leaves , to serve
For the grapefruit dipping sauce 4 tbsp fresh red grapefruit juice (from about 1 grapefruit) 1 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tsp caster sugar 1 red chilli ,…