Fuschia Dunlop’s juicy tofu in a spicy sauce. Photograph: Patricia Niven/The Guardian. Food styling: Tamara Vos. Prop styling: Anna Willkins. Food styling assistant: Katie Smith. View image in fullscreen Fuschia Dunlop’s juicy tofu in a spicy sauce. Photograph: Patricia Niven/The Guardian. Food styling: Tamara Vos. Prop styling: Anna Willkins. Food styling assistant: Katie Smith. Food Hot and sour, vegetarian mapo and in spicy sauce: Fuchsia Dunlop’s tofu recipes Wobblesome, firm or silken, tofu is a star ingredient in Chinese cooking. These dishes show why
Prefer the Guardian on Google I n the west, tofu is often viewed as a substitute for meat, which may explain why firmer types that can be cut into chunks and fried or grilled like meat have become so ubiquitous. In China, however, where tofu has been eaten for at least 1,000 years, it isn’t a substitute for anything; it’s simply a protein-rich ingredient that forms part of most people’s diets, can be cooked with meat and fish, and comes in myriad forms, from the tender, wobbly tofu used to make Sichuanese mapo tofu to firm smoked tofu, sheets of tofu “skin” and the silken tofu that can be as soft as creme caramel. Many Chinese tofu recipes are so delicious that habitual meat-eaters will devour them as keenly as vegetarians.
In Yunnan, eating tofu is a social activity. All over the south of the province, people gather around grills tended by cooks who slowly toast chunks of cured tofu until they are crisp and golden on the outside, soft and slightly juicy within, and customers help themselves, dipping the tofu pieces into soy sauce, chilli, garlic and herbs. Aside from the ubiquitous tofu grills, there are many delicious local tofu recipes, including this one. In Yunnan, they make it with slices of fresh tofu soaked in an alkaline solution, which makes the texture particularly custardy after frying: a sort of artisanal molecular gastronomy (such tofu is described as “enclosing milkiness”). At home, however, I use tofu that is very tender but just holds its shape and is similarly sumptuous when bathed in a spicy sauce with minced pork (to make this vegetarian, simply omit the pork). The tofu can be deep-fried a few hours ahead and chilled until you wish to finish cooking. I use a combination of Sichuan chilli bean paste and sambal oelek instead of Yunnan fermented sauces, which are hard to find outside China.
Prep 10 min Cook 20 min Serves 4 with rice and 2-3 other dishes
600g tender plain white tofu Cooking oil , for deep-frying, plus 3 tbsp extra for the wok 100g minced pork 1 tbsp Shaoxing wine 2 tbsp Sichuan chilli bean paste 1 small red onion (about 50g), peeled and finely chopped 1½ tbsp finely chopped garlic 1 tbsp finely chopped ginger 2 tbsp finely chopped red chilli 1 tbsp sambal oelek A few pinches of ground white pepper , to taste 1 tsp potato starch mixed with 1 tbsp cold water 3 tbsp finely sliced spring onions , green parts only
Cut the tofu into even, 1-1½cm-thick bite-size pieces, then gently pat dry with kitchen paper.
Heat oil for deep-frying to 180C. Working in batches, fry the tofu for about five minutes, until golden brown, then drain on kitchen paper. You can do this step a few hours in advance.
Put three tablespoons of oil in a seasoned wok on a high heat. Add the pork and stir-fry, breaking up the meat, then, when it turns pale, add the Shaoxing wine. When the meat is a little golden, turn down the heat to medium, add the chilli bean paste and stir until…