In the 1980s, 75 per cent of the wine we consumed was French. Much of the remainder was sweet German Liebfraumilch and Rioja from Spain. And sherry. White wines were almost exclusively from the Loire (Muscadet and Sancerre) and Burgundy (Chablis and Mâcon). The favoured red wines were Beaujolais, Burgundy and – the most popular of all – Bordeaux.
Many of the supermarkets didn’t sell wine at this stage and there were few wine shops, so most wine was sold through off-licences. Their shelves were generally lined with inexpensive red Bordeaux. Some had the grand title of Château, technically a castle or great house although the reality was usually a modest farmhouse.
I have always retained an affection for inexpensive Bordeaux. They are light- to medium-bodied with just-ripe dark fruits and a gently tannic kick on the dry finish. On their own they can seem a little austere, but with food they come into their own. Roast lamb would be one of the local favourites, but any red or white meat, game or firm cheese will do nicely.
Bordeaux is going through something of a crisis. Production increased in the 1990s and the first decade of this century, saturating the market. This left producers unable to sell their wine. Since then the French government has been paying vignerons to pull up their vines. I had expected to find a huge range of inexpensive Bordeaux in all our big retailers when I looked recently but didn’t. I did, however, come across four wines that epitomise red Bordeaux at very good prices.
This is the fourth vintage of this wine I have covered. It offers great value; light, fresh clean redcurrant and plum fruits with dried herbs.
This was quite delicious; classic Bordeaux flavours of blackcurrants and plums with light tannins. Very Bordeaux, very drinkable and fantastic value.
From Whelehans, Loughlinstown, Dublin 18, Whelehans.ie
Medium-bodied with fine raspberry and red cherry fruits, a touch of spice and gentle tannins.
From Wines Direct, Mullingar and Athlone, Co Westmeath, Winesdirect.ie
Another lovely classic Bordeaux. Medium-bodied with sleek ripe dark fruits, a touch of oak and a smooth finish.
Gibney’s, Malahide, Co Dublin; Martins, Dublin 3; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4; Nolans Butchers, Kildare; Eldon’s, Clonmel, Co Tipperary; Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin