Photos: Getty Images Save Story Save this story Save Story Save this story There are plenty of ways to become a blonde , but if your dream color is hair that looks naturally lightened, you’ll want to ask your colorist for a blonde balayage. The technique has become synonymous with soft, dimensional color and a forgiving grow-out, but “balayage” can mean different things depending on the colorist, the starting point, and the result you want.
It also doesn’t automatically mean a subtle, barely there blonde. “I think that people often associate balayage with ombré or muted blondes,” says Emaly Baum , colorist and founder of Beauty Supply in New York City. “While you use balayage to achieve softened blondes or more ‘grown-out’ looks, balayage is simply a technique.” That means you can go seriously blonde with balayage; it’s the placement and blending that give the color its characteristic softness. Whether you’re starting with dark brown hair and want strategically placed blonde or you’re already fairly light and want a more dimensional result, the service can be customized considerably.
We asked colorists to explain what blonde balayage involves, who it works best for, what to request when you’re in the salon chair, and how to keep those blonde pieces looking fresh—not faded or brassy—long after your initial appointment.
What is balayage and how is it different from traditional highlights? Who is blonde balayage best for? How do you get blonde balayage? How do you maintain blonde balayage? Blonde balayage inspiration What is balayage and how is it different from traditional highlights? Technically, balayage is a highlighting technique , not a hair color. The word has traditionally referred to hair being hand-painted, creating a more customized distribution of lighter pieces, but its meaning has evolved over time.
“Balayage originally meant painting highlights directly onto the hair without using foil,” says Ian McCabe , colorist and owner of Navy in Washington, DC. “In recent years, it has become a catchall term for dimensional highlights that grow out with more ease.” That means modern balayage can involve some foil. According to McCabe, colorists may use foils alongside techniques such as back-combing to create a softer result. A root shadow can also help gradually transition from a slightly darker shade near the roots into lighter lengths, helping blur the line between the natural hair color and blonde highlights.
The biggest visual difference between traditional blonde highlights and blonde balayage is the way the blonde transitions through the hair. “Traditional highlights are generally evenly light from root to ends, whereas balayage creates more of a gradient effect,” McCabe explains. The goal is a dimensional result with a softer, more seamless grow-out .
Baum describes balayage as “much softer and diffused” than a traditional foil highlight, often creating a sun-kissed appearance. “This doesn’t mean that you can’t be super blonde with balayage,” she says. “It just means that your grow out is going to be that much better.”
Paige Van Ryswyk , a colorist and hairstylist at Scotch Bonnet Hair Studio in West Palm Beach, Florida, agrees that balayage is particularly suited to a lived-in effect but that it doesn’t rule out a brighter impact. “Blonde balayage is simply best for a more low-maintenance client,” she says.
If you've been avoiding balayage because you think it means you'll end up with barely perceptible beige…