A reader has a question about supermarket wines .
“The multiples stock budget-friendly (€15-25) versions of the easily recognised ‘marquee’ wines – Barolo, Amarone, St Émilion, and even Brunello. Could you help the average pleb like me to work out whether or not these represent good value compared to more expensive labels from off-licences?”
The big names in wine rarely offer value for money. Famous around the world, the good producers in a well-known region can almost always charge premium prices for their wines. If you do find an inexpensive one, you have to ask why a producer is selling the famous name so cheaply. There are exceptions: the Aldi Monsigny Champagne (€22.99), the Château Lacombe Cadiot Bordeaux (€12 on promotion in SuperValu), and the Château Les Trois Manoirs Médoc (Aldi, €11.99) all offer fantastic value for money. But as a general rule, I would avoid cheaper versions of wines from the best regions.
Instead, I would look to cheaper wines from the same top producers. A Bourgogne pinot noir from a top Gevrey-Chambertin producer will have a little of the magic at a much lower price. So too will a Rosso di Montalcino instead of a Brunello di Montalcino or a Côtes du Rhône instead of a Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I always look out for a Langhe Nebbiolo from top Barolo or Barbaresco estates, or Crozes-Hermitage from a great Hermitage producer.
It is also worth looking out for neighbouring less famous regions; Marsannay is not far from Gevrey-Chambertin, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Montalcino, and Vacqueyras is a short drive from Châteauneuf-du-Pape (SuperValu Vacqueyras, sometimes on offer at €10, is great value). In Spain, Navarra is right beside Rioja and produces some great wines. All of these names can offer real value for money.
As for the good, expensive, famous names, most of them have increased dramatically in recent years, and few are worth the money.
Sadly, as the big names are an easier sell, most of the multiples offer inexpensive versions and ignore alternatives. You may have to go to your local independent to find the less familiar wines above.
In recent months, I have done large comprehensive tastings of multiples’ budget Marlborough sauvignon , albariño and malbec (24 th October). Perhaps I should have included some of the more expensive wines from the independents too. I will do so in the future. The problem is I can only taste so many wines.