T his week’s recipes are inspired by a recent trip to McNally Family Farm in north Dublin. Established in 1997 by Jenny and Patrick McNally, this organic farm spans 40 hectares in Co Dublin’s horticultural heartland. Over the years, the next generation has joined the business, which now includes a farm shop, wholesale, a cafe and market visits.
On the day we went, the weather was balmy, which added to the magic of the area. There was an abundance and variety of produce on show across an array of polytunnels and open fields. Jenny talked and walked us through the options with a blend of wit, passion and grit. There were varieties of salad leaves, cabbages and chillies, Sakura tomatoes, padrón peppers, peach trees, apple trees, runner beans, broad beans and flowers. In the fields we found carrots, beetroots, celeriac, potatoes, leeks, onions, sprouting broccoli and all manner of green herbs.
Trips like these remind you why you became a chef, and also make the task of creativity far easier. I’ve said it many times, but cooking is as simple as understanding and finding great produce. Once you have that, you just need to create a pleasurable environment where you put them on the plate (with minimal faff) for guests to enjoy. Of course, it helps if you can serve a nice glass of vino to match. Which brings us to this week’s recipes.
The first is an extremely simple salad that relies on two key ingredients; perfectly ripe peaches and Jamón Ibérico. The peaches are sliced and their stones removed. A white-hot barbecue grate is essential for avoiding sticking and overcooking. The idea is to get the surface of the fruit blackened while protecting the texture and preventing the sugars turning to jam. Once charred, they are draped with the room-temperature jamón, where the residual heat will melt the fat. Topped with rocket, crostini and a simple dressing with decent olive oil, this is a serious showcase of seasonal produce.
The second dish is potentially a little surprising given the bulk of the produce was available a 20-minute drive from Dublin city. White cabbage, bok choy, chilli and a variety of herbs are mixed with finely grated carrot to create a simple Asian-style slaw. It’s seasoned with a dressing based around soy sauce and honey, cut with vinegar and mellowed with nutty sesame oil. Chicken thighs are marinated in a blend of cashew nut and lemon grass that blackens as it’s cooked on a hot pan before being sliced.
This is simple, delicious and cost-effective cooking that supports passionate local producers such as the McNallys. Give them a visit and see for yourself.