Photo: Acielle/ Style Du Monde Save Story Save this story Save Story Save this story The whirlwind that is September in Paris, intensified this year by Celine Dion’s residency and Pope Leo XIV’s visit to the capital, continues with a packed fashion week. With two designer debuts, returning brands, pivotal third shows and events aplenty, there’s much to watch out for.
The Spring/Summer 2027 women’s ready-to-wear calendar, running from September 28 to October 6, features a total of 68 shows and 34 presentations, compared to 74 shows and 37 presentations for SS26 . That was a historic season, marked by an unprecedented wave of designer debuts . This season will see just two: Courrèges ’s new artistic director Drew Henry, whose first outing for the brand is on September 30 at 10.30am, and Carven’s new design director , Kai Nesselrath, showing on October 1 at 12.30pm.
Alaïa is hosting two intimate presentations on October 3 at 7pm and 8pm. The collection will be designed by the studio, following the departure of longtime creative director Pieter Mulier , who left for Versace early this year.
A number of brands are returning to the calendar after a season or more off: Valentino, which showed its fall 2026 collection in Rome , Maison Margiela (whose creative director Glenn Martens will focus solely on the house after stepping down from Diesel ), Sacai, Ester Manas, Christopher Esber, and Casablanca.
Other highlights include the third women’s ready-to-wear shows of those heading up Dior (Jonathan Anderson), Chanel (Matthieu Blazy), Balenciaga (Pierpaolo Piccioli), Loewe (Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez), Jean Paul Gaultier (Duran Lantink), and Mugler (Miguel Castro Freitas). “A year after fashion’s major shake-up, it’s a season of asserting creative visions,” PR guru Lucien Pagès notes.
On the third shows of Blazy at Chanel and Anderson at Dior, Galeries Lafayette chief merchandising officer Alix Morabito, says: “There is always something particularly exciting — and intense — about witnessing two major talents define their visions within two of the world’s most powerful fashion houses.” Morabito went on to call Lantink’s Jean Paul Gaultier “one of the most compelling reboots of a designer brand”.
The first day will give a nice play to LVMH Prize alumni, with shows from Julie Kegels and Hodakova, winners of the prize in 2026 and 2024, respectively, as well as the presentation of 2024 semi-finalist Fidan Novruzova, who joins the official calendar this season. Meanwhile, 2023 LVMH Prize winner Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu will present his collaboration with French outdoors and lifestyle brand Aigle from 6pm in the garden of Musée Carnavalet.
Also on Monday, Maxhosa Africa, the South African label founded by designer Laduma Ngxokolo, will put on its first official PFW show. Ngxokolo’s colorful knitwear creations have been worn by Beyoncé and Michelle Obama.
Day two will feature the show of 2026 Andan Grand Prize winner Marie Adam-Leenaerdt , known for her conceptual and versatile designs. “She has earned it. Now, it’s time for her to fully unleash her strength, talent, and vision,” Morabito says of the Belgian designer.
Alexandra Golovanoff, the Parisian designer and journalist who launched her eponymous cashmere line in 2016, before expanding it into a complete wardrobe collection, will also present on September 29. This season, she is joining the official presentation calendar.
On October 1, Icicle, the Chinese fashion brand that recen…