Ali Stoner’s cullen skink bake. Photograph: Ola O Smit/The Guardian. Food and prop styling: Lucy Turnbull. Food styling assistant: Lilli Gavin. View image in fullscreen Ali Stoner’s cullen skink bake. Photograph: Ola O Smit/The Guardian. Food and prop styling: Lucy Turnbull. Food styling assistant: Lilli Gavin. Food Cullen skink pies, vegetarian haggis and chippy fritters: Ali Stoner’s recipes for twists on Scottish classics Scots have a rich food history that’s been passed down through generations. Here are my modern takes on traditional Celtic staples
Prefer the Guardian on Google T here is a depth and history to Scotland’s food that reaches far beyond deep-fried Mars bars or urban myths about haggis. Kitchens were humble and full of life – recipes passed by word of mouth, scraps of paper shared between friends, generations stitching together simple meals. I’m lucky enough that my mum taught me how a potato, a handful of oatmeal and a bit of salt and butter could make a meal and hold a story, but life changes – new ingredients arrive, we move away, time grows shorter – and, sometimes, those simple, comforting recipes drift out of reach. Today’s dishes began as a keepsake for my children – to save old recipes, to record a feeling of home – but also as an invitation to discover what happens when memory meets invention.
The starting point for these smoked fish pies is basically a cullen skink soup, which I thicken to make the filling. Traditional cullen skink relies on Scottish smoked haddock for its flavour. There is just nothing else like it, though Shetland smoked cod also works really well here. Finish these wee pies with a grating of sharp cheddar. Delicious.
Prep 15 min Cook 1 hr 20 min, plus cooling time Makes 4 pies
15g unsalted butter , plus 1 knob extra for frying Olive oil , for frying 100g onions , peeled and finely chopped Salt and black pepper , to taste 250g potatoes (use a good all-rounder such as maris piper or king edward), peeled and cut into 1cm cubes 200ml whole milk 250g good (ie, undyed) smoked haddock , or smoked cod, cut into bite-sized pieces 15g plain flour 1 tbsp chopped chives 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 tsp dijon mustard 1 standard 320g sheet ready-rolled all-butter shortcrust pastry , or puff pastry (27cm × 35cm) Grated cheddar , to finish 1 egg yolk mixed with a little milk
Melt the knob of butter and a drizzle of oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat. Add the onions and a pinch of salt, and saute on a low to medium heat for about five minutes, to soften. Add the cubed potatoes, keep the heat low, cover and sweat for 10 or so minutes, until the potatoes start to soften but are still a little hard. Stir in the milk, lay the fish on top of the potatoes, then cover again and simmer for 10 minutes more, until you can easily press the point of a knife into the potato: you want them to retain their shape, rather than be mushy. Using a slotted spoon, carefully lift the fish, potatoes and onion out of the hot milk, then pour the liquid into a jug.
Melt the 15g butter in the same pan, then stir in the flour and cook on a low heat for a couple of minutes. Pour in the reserved poaching liquid, stir for about five minutes, until the mixture thickens, then take off the heat and carefully fold in the fish, potatoes and onions. Add the herbs, mustard and black pepper to taste, then leave to cool.
Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas7. Lay out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface and cut it i…