Rumors have been swirling recently that Chloé designer Chemena Kamali is leaving the brand to take over from Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent. Honestly, we’re one of the outlets that’s been swirling that particular rumor , but it’s not because we want it to be true! As far as we’re concerned, Kamali’s Chloé is the best Chloé has been since Phoebe Philo’s tenure. Maybe even before that. In fact, it may just be the best the brand has ever been. And that is really saying something, considering the incredible talent who has headed that house over the years — Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Clare Waight Keller (who she worked under at the brand), Natacha Ramsay-Levi — and Kamali only just got the job in 2023, so it seems way too soon for her to be jumping ship of her own accord.
And yet, before she was at Chloé, Kamali did work at Saint Laurent as women’s ready-to-wear design director under Anthony Vaccarello. If the brass at Kering wanted to bring her back into the fold, this would be the perfect opportunity. And how could they not want to? They know her and have worked with her and they’ve seen what kind of fabulousness she’s capable of when she’s put in charge. Just look at her lastest offering for Chloé Spring Summer 2027 — it’s stunning from beginning to end.
The fringe looks that opened the show felt vintagey and fun and the low necklines on the coats and jackets that followed were so romantic, the way they showed off the lacy little bits hidden underneath.
Kamali isn’t the first person to do long plastic rain coats this season, but hers felt charming and even romantic when paired with matching and cascading rain hats. And in such fabulous colors. How could you not want one?
And the lace. The lace! So much stunning lace. Lace separates and dresses feel like a must for every Chloé collection, but Kamali really outdid herself this time. Especially at the end of the show when she combined those barely there criss-crossing lace bodysuits with those voluminous double bubble hemmed skirts. Stunning. If this is her final collection for Chloè, it’s a damn good one.
And there was something sort of melancholy about the show notes that also makes us think Kamali’s time at the brand could be drawing to an end. The notes were written in first person and read almost like a letter, starting with the line: “May the love that poured into this collection endure forever.” And ending with: “This collection, I hope, is an expression of the maison’s heart, and soul. Forever Chloé. Love, Chemena.”
There were also moments in there that felt very Saint Laurent. Not that Saint Laurent necessarily owns these silhouettes — and they still looked very Chloé through Kamali’s lens — but you could almost imagine Kamali designing these looks with an eye to her next job as much as to her current one.
SIDE NOTE: This show was also nepo baby Apple Martin’s runway debut (see above, center) but, honestly, there is so much more to talk about here!
If Kamali does end up decamping for Kering-owned Saint Laurent, they’ll be lucky to have her, and if not, well, Richemont (Chloé’s parent company) should give her a raise. She’s earned it.
Check out the rest of Chemena Kamali’s fantastic Chloé Spring/Summer 2027 collection below.
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