Food & Cooking

Spicy fish sandos, feta scones and pork chops: Alexina Anatole’s summer berry recipes

British berries always sparkle in desserts like this French almond sponge, but their hidden talent lies in savoury dishes British berries have a secret; we tend to reach for them...

AAdmin
July 2, 2026
4 min read
Spicy fish sandos, feta scones and pork chops: Alexina Anatole’s summer berry recipes

Really berry good … Alexina Anatole’s summer recipes. Photograph: Laura Edwards/The Guardian. Food styling: Joss Herd. Prop styling: Tabitha Hawkins View image in fullscreen Really berry good … Alexina Anatole’s summer recipes. Photograph: Laura Edwards/The Guardian. Food styling: Joss Herd. Prop styling: Tabitha Hawkins Summer food 2026 Fruit Spicy fish sandos, feta scones and pork chops: Alexina Anatole’s summer berry recipes British berries always sparkle in desserts like this French almond sponge, but their hidden talent lies in savoury dishes

Prefer the Guardian on Google B ritish berries have a secret; we tend to reach for them in crumbles, fools and jammy things, but their real superpower is their tartness – it’s the key to their versatility. Think of them less as fruit and more as a condiment: something to cut through richness and balance a dish, in much the same way that a good vinegar might. I’ve long had a love affair with British berries – childhood summers spent picking blackberries from the hedgerows for my grandmother’s apple and blackberry pie started it all – but over the years I’ve become increasingly reluctant to confine them just to dessert. Let these be your permission to do the same.

View image in fullscreen Prep 20 min Cook 40 min Serves 2

For the fish A knob of butter 1 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp plain flour ¼ tsp cayenne , or to taste 20 grinds of black pepper ¼ tsp fine sea salt 2 plaice fillets (or white fish of your choice), skinned and cut in half lengthways

For the gooseberry ketchup 250g gooseberries (fresh or frozen), topped and tailed if required 1 small banana shallot (approx 50g), peeled and chopped into 5-6 chunks 1 small garlic clove , peeled and grated 2 tbsp chardonnay vinegar , or white wine vinegar 2 tbsp caster sugar 1½ tbsp olive oil ½ tsp mustard seeds 1 fresh bay leaf

For the slaw ½ tsp flaky sea salt ¼ red cabbage (approx 200g), tough outer leaves removed, very finely sliced 2 tbsp Kewpie mayonnaise (or standard mayonnaise) 1 tsp gochujang, or chilli paste of choice ½ tsp ginger paste Juice of ½ lime ¼ tsp fine sea salt 1 large carrot (approx 200g), finely julienned or grated 2 spring onions , trimmed an d thinly sliced

To compile 4 slices brioche (or white bread of choice), toasted

For the ketchup, blend the berries, shallot, garlic, vinegar, 45ml water and sugar in a food processor until combined – it will retain some texture, particularly if using frozen berries.

Heat a small saucepan over medium-high heat, add the olive oil and, once hot, add the mustard seeds and bay leaf – they should sizzle gently. Bloom the spices for 45 seconds, then reduce the heat and stir in the gooseberry mixture. Simmer for 15–20 minutes, until slightly thickened and jammy, then take off the heat and adjust the seasoning to taste. (I like my ketchup to have texture but if you want it smooth, blend with a stick blender then pass through a sieve.) Transfer to a sterilised jar and, once cool, refrigerate for up to two weeks.

Sprinkle the half-teaspoon of flaky sea salt over the shredded red cabbage and massage it in for 30 seconds or so, then set aside to soften for about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dressing by combining the mayonnaise, gochujang, ginger, lime juice and fine sea salt. Toss the carrots and spring onions through the red cabbage, followed by the dressing and set aside.

To cook the fish, heat a nonstick pan over a medium heat with the butter and oil. Combine the flour, cayenne, black pepper…