Courtesy of Michelle German at Capital Aesthetic + Laser Center Save Story Save this story Save Story Save this story As someone with dark skin, laser procedures have always seemed like risky business. When done correctly, they can increase skin vibrancy and reduce hyperpigmentation . But pick the wrong one, and you've just zapped your way into irreversible scarring, burns, and hyperpigmentation—the kind that takes years to get rid of.
For that reason, I largely avoided using lasers on my face, especially after a laser hair removal technician once told me that my chances of having adverse laser experiences in general were higher due to my skin tone. I was willing to risk it on my legs, but on the money maker? No dice.
Then, my social algorithm began to show me videos of Black women sharing their positive experiences with a specific laser treatment called Laser Genesis—a near-infrared Nd:YAG laser—which claims to promote glowier, plumper skin. My curiosity was piqued.
On TikTok , there are hundreds of videos of women sharing their journeys with Laser Genesis, and a sizable percentage of these posts come from women of color. These users make the procedure look pain-free and almost relaxing: Many of them talk and laugh through the entire treatment . They also return to their daily activities right after the appointment, without needing the week to 10 days of downtime that’s required after many laser procedures.
All those videos are leading to real-life hype. Saya Obayan , MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Austin, Texas, says Black women have been flocking to her office asking for the procedure. Sarah Yagerman , MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, says the same: "Rather than going to your dermatologist and saying, I want to treat XYZ [condition], people are coming in and requesting procedures by the brand name,” Dr. Yagerman says. “Right now, Laser Genesis happens to be the one with a lot of recognition."
Historically, lasers haven’t really been as safe for people with darker skin tones. “[Lasers work] through a process called selective photothermolysis,” Naana Boakye , MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Hackensack, New Jersey, previously told Allure . Photothermolysis is a scientific term that explains how energy from lasers selects, heats, and destroys a target—which could include melanin. Additionally, “the heat from the laser can trigger the production of melanocytes, which will create more melanin pigment, leading to hyperpigmentation and dark spots forming,” cosmetic chemist Shuting Hu previously told Allure
Lasers that use Nd:YAG technology are generally safe enough for darker skin tones since they don’t attack melanocytes the same way many other laser devices do (more on that later). Though Laser Genesis is only one of a handful of Nd:YAG lasers, Dr. Obayan and Dr. Yagerman say social media testimonies that herald the treatment as one of the few laser options suitable for darker skin have made it the most popular of the bunch.
The TikTok videos were enough to prompt me to begin searching for a provider in my area. Before jumping on the trend, though, I spoke with a handful of dermatologists to learn exactly what Laser Genesis is and why it’s becoming such a desirable treatment option for those with darker skin tones.
“In general, laser treatments work by emitting a narrow beam of a single wavelength, or color, of light," Shereene Idriss , a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, …